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Novi Sad

Za slučaj da nemate avion i padobran na raspolaganju, niste Feliks Baumgartner i definitivno niste Nemac star 60+ godina na krstarenju Dunavom, onda ćete verovatno krenuti od glavne autobuske/železničke stanice. Daću vam isti savet koji je jedan prodavac novina dao meni pre oko 15 godina kada sam došao u Novi Sad po prvi put da vidim Univerzitet. In case you don't have a plane and a parachute on your disposal, you are not Felix Baumgartner and you are definitely not 60+ years old German on the Danube cruise holiday, then you will probably start from the central bus/train station. I will give you the same advice that one news dealer gave me about 15 years ago when I went to Novi Sad for the first time to see the University.
"Vidiš tamo jednu malu autobusku stanicu? Idi tamo i sačekaj autobus broj 4 (četvorka) i siđi s busa posle X stanica sa svim ostalim mladim ljudima." "You see the small bus station over there? Go there and wait for the bus number 4 (četvorka) and leave the bus after X stations with all other young people."
Sad vi ne želite da idete na Univerzitet, iako kad vidite sve one devojke štreberke sa naočarima i mnogo knjiga, mogli biste poželeti. Mogli biste takođe videti i neke momke koji izgledaju kao da idu u rat sa raketnim bacačima. Ne brinite, to su samo studenti arhitekture. Elem, uzmite autobus broj 4 i siđite na 3. stanici u Jevrejskoj ulici. Preko puta možete kupiti sveže voće na Futoškoj pijaci. Kad to uradite nastavite kroz Jevrejsku ulicu. Negde na sredini videćete Baletsku školu, Jevrejsku opštinu i Sinagogu koju je Jevrejska opština ustupila gradu na korišćenje isključivo za potrebe izvođenja muzičkih sadržaja. Now you don't want to go to University, although when you see all those young nerdy girls wearing glasses and lots of books you might wish to. You could also see some guys that look like they are going to war with rocket launchers. Don't worry, they are just students of architecture. Anyway, take the bus No 4 and get off at the 3rd station in Jevrejska street. Across the street you can buy some fresh fruits at Futoška pijaca. After you do that proceed through Jevrejska street. Somewhere in the middle you will see the Ballet School, the Jewish Community building and the Synagogue that Jewish community donated to the city to be used exclusively for musical performances.
Kad dođete do kraja Jevrejske ulice verovatno ćete se pitati "Gde sada?" jer na levoj strani je Srpsko Narodno pozorište, na desnoj strani je ogromna pošta i Trg Mladenaca iza nje. Ispred pošte postoji jedan podzemni prolaz pa idite tamo i na drugoj strani ulice videćete Bazaar, hotel Vojvodina i ... pa čestitamo, upravo ste našli samo srce grada, Trg Slobode, mesto na kojem se sve dešava u Novom Sadu, od dočeka Nove godine do proslava i koncerata. When you reach the end of Jevrejska street you will probably ask yourself "Where to go now?" cause on the left side you have Serbian National Theatre, on the right side you have huge post office and Trg Mladenaca behind it. In front of the post office you have one underground passage so go there and on the other side of the street you will see Bazaar, hotel Vojvodina and ... well, congratulations, you have just found the hart of the city, the Liberty Square, the place for all that happens in Novi Sad, from ringing in the New Year to celebrations and concerts.
provirite sneak peek
ovde / here
Svetozar Miletić stoji u centru trga. Iza njega je Gradska kuća. Ona je kopija gradske kuće u Gracu, pa ako dolazite odande osećaćete se kao kod kuće. Svetozar Miletić stands in the middle of the square. Behind him is City Hall. It is the copy of the city hall in Graz, so if you are coming from there you will feel like at home.
Nasuprot Gradske kuće stoji župna crkva Imena Marijinog koju stanovnici Novog Sada zovu Katedrala iako ona to nije. Opposite City Hall stands a parish church, called the Name of Mary Church, that residents of Novi Sad call "the Cathedral" although it is not.
S leve strane Svetozara Miletića možete videti Finansijsku palatu, Gradsku galeriju i zgradu "Gvozdeni čovek". On the left side of Svetozar Miletić you can see the Finance House, the City Gallery and the "Iron Man" building.
Primetićete da Svetozar izgleda kao da baca nešto na crkvu. E pa, bio je prilično preke naravi, zato statua izgleda tako, da predstavi njegov temperament. Elem, ne zaboravite na najstarije pozorište u Srbiji, Srpsko narodno pozorište na Pozorišnom trgu i ako ste gladni a nemate previše vremena, ne zaboravite na Mekdonalds između dva trga ili ako više volite lokalnu brzu hranu idite u Foody na drugoj strani Trga slobode. Moram vam reći da je ovo najčistiji mek-restoran koji sam ikad video a bio sam u njima u Istanbulu, Puli, Berlinu, Minhenu, Londonu, Madridu, Barseloni, Atini ... ali opet, preporučio bih vam Foody iako im logo izgleda kao Yahoo! :) You will notice that Svetozar looks like he's throwing something at the church. Well, he was not very easy going man, that's why the statue looks like that, to represent his temperament. Anyway, don't forget for the oldest theatre in Serbia, the Serbian National Theatre located on Theatre Square and if you are hungry and don't have too much time, McDonalds between two squares or if you prefer local fast food go to Foody on the other side of the Liberty Square. I must tell you that this is the cleanest McRestaurant I have ever seen and I've been in them in Istanbul, Pula, Berlin, Munich, London, Madrid, Barcelona, Athens, ... but again, I would recommend Foody although its logo looks like Yahoo! :)
Vratimo se na momenat podzemnom prolazu. Niste mogli promašiti jedan stari tramvaj tamo, poznatiji kao Trčika, koji je pretvoren u popularni kafić. Novi Sad je imao tramvaje naravno i nadam se da će ih neko jednog dana vratiti. Let's go back for a moment to the underground passage. You could not miss one old tramcar there, widely known as Trčika, which has been turned into a popular café. Novi Sad used to have trams of course and I hope somebody will return them back one day.
Idemo sada u Zmaj Jovinu ulicu koja počinje velikom Tanurdžićevom palatom koja se, ako mene pitate, uopšte ne uklapa sa ostalim zgradama na trgu. U Zmaj Jovinoj ulici ćete naći sve vrste radnji, knjige, cipele, odeću, igračke itd. i ulica se završava bistom slavnog dečijeg pesnika i lekara Jovana Jovanovića Zmaja a iza njega je rezidencija srpskog pravoslavnog Episkopa Eparhije Bačke tj. Vladičanski dvor. Now let's go to the Zmaj Jovina street that starts with big Tanurdžić’s Palace that, if you ask me, definitely doesn't fit on that square at all. In Zmaj Jovina you will find all kind of stores, books, shoes, clothes, toys etc. and the street ends with the sculpture of the famous children's poet and doctor Jovan Jovanović Zmaj and behind him the residence of the Serbian Orthodox Bishop of the Eparchy of Bačka.
Ovde ćemo skrenuti desno u Dunavsku ulicu Here we will turn right into Dunavska street
koja levo počinje Gradskom bibliotekom a desno je Irish Pub. Nisam baš siguran da je to njegovo pravo ime ali koga briga, mesto je super-opušteno! which starts with the City Library on the left and with Irish Pub on the right. I'm not really sure that its real name is Irish pub but who cares, it's super-cool!
U Dunavskoj ulici možete uživati u fasadama starih zgrada i nastaviti sa kupovinom i na kraju možete odmoriti s labudovima Isom i Bisom u Dunavskom parku, najlepšem parku u Novom Sadu. In Dunavska street you can enjoy in facades of old buildings and continue with shopping and at the end you can rest with the swans Isa and Bisa in Danube Park (Dunavski Park), the most beautifully laid out park in Novi Sad.
Dok uživate u tišini i jedete voće koje ste kupili na Futoškoj pijaci hajde da kažemo nešto o najvažnijem delu Novog Sada, njegovom narodu. Možete ponekad čuti u ostalim delovima Srbije da neko kaže: "On je tako fin, mora da je gej ili Novosađanin." Nema potrebe dalje da objašnjavam ali Novosađani su stvarno krajnje kulturni ljudi. While you are enjoying the silence and eating fruits you bought at Futoška pijaca let's say something about the most important part of Novi Sad, its people. You can sometimes hear in other parts of Serbia that someone says: "He's such a nice guy, he must be gay or from Novi Sad." No need to elaborate further but really Novosađani are extremely polite people.
Elem, ne zaboravite da se slikate sa Đurom Jakšićem na drugoj strani parka i kad izađete videćete ovo ... ovo čudo, ovaj svemirski brod, gigantski galeb, Titanik prekriven belim mermerom nazvan "Izvršno veće Vojvodine". Anyway, don't forget to take a picture with Đura Jakšić on the other side of the park and when you go out you will see this ... this thing, this space ship, gigantic seagull, Titanic coated in white marble named "The Executive Council of Vojvodina".
Moram vam reći da je policija oko zgrade jako nepoverljiva. Traže od mene ličnu kartu skoro svaki put kad prođem blizu, zato nikad nisam napravio nijednu fotografiju te zgrade. I have to tell you that police officers around the building are very distrustful. They asked for an ID almost every time when I pass by near the building. That's why I didn't make any picture of it ever.
Inače, ovako izgledaju skoro sve ulice Novog Sada. By the way, this is how streets of Novi Sad usually look like.
Idemo sada na desnu obalu Dunava preko mosta Duga da vidimo Petrovaradinsku tvrđavu. Now, let's go to the right bank of the Danube over the Rainbow bridge to see Petrovaradin Fortress.
Usput, Novi Sad ima tri mosta, Most slobode, Novosadska duga i jedan drumsko-železnički most bez imena. Sva tri mosta su bili uništeni u NATO bombardovanju '99. i posle su rekonstruisani. By the way, Novi Sad has three bridges, Liberty bridge, Rainbow bridge and one Road–Railway bridge with no specific name. All three bridges have been destroyed in NATO bombing '99. and rebuilt afterwards.
E sad, mogao bih večno pričati o njoj ali ću spomenuti samo najvažnije stvari. Kula sa satom je jedan od najpoznatijih simbola i tvrđave i grada Novog Sada. Velika kazaljka pokazuje sate dok mala kazaljka pokazuje minute. Ovo je urađeno da bi ljudi, posebno lađari, mogli da vide vreme sa velike udaljenosti. Još jedna karakteristika ovog sata je da na hladnom vremenu kasni a na toplom žuri. Now, I could talk forever about it but let me mention only the most important things. The Clock Tower is one of the most famous landmarks of both the fortress and the city of Novi Sad. The large hand indicates the hour while the small hand indicates the minute. This was done so people, in particular those navigating the river, could see what the time was from a long distance away. Another interesting trait of this clock is that in cold weather it runs slow while in warm weather it is fast.
Najbitnije turističke atrakcije na tvrđavi su Muzej Novog Sada, opservatorija i ateljei koji se nalaze ispod Duge kasarne. Otvoreni su tokom godine i tamo mnogi umetnici nalaze inspiraciju za svoja dela. Moguće je porazgovarati sa umetnicima u ovim ateljeima, baciti pogleda na njihov rad i to u momentu stvaranja. Akademija umetnosti se takođe nalazi na tvrđavi i naravno EXIT, najveći muzički festival u ovom delu Evrope koji se ovde održava svakog leta tokom prve nedelje jula. The most outstanding tourist attractions on the fortress are the Novi Sad City Museum, the Observatory and the studios located underneath the Long Barracks. They are open throughout the year and many artists find inspiration for their own works in them. It is possible to speak with artists in these studios, take a look at their work and even witness new works being created. The Academy of Arts is also on the fortress and of course EXIT, the largest music festival in this part of Europe, takes place here every summer in the first week of July.
Šetnja oko Petrovaradinske tvrđave je nešto što ne treba da propustite - uživati u svežem vazduhu, diviti se brojnim velikim skulpturama koje su napravili razni umetnici Taking a walk around Petrovaradin Fortress is something that should not be missed – enjoy the fresh air, admire the great many statues made by various artists
i uživati u nezaboravnom pogledu na Novi Sad, Dunav i Frušku Goru. and take in the unforgettable view of Novi Sad, the Danube and Fruška Gora.
Ostale stvari u Novom Sadu koje ne treba propustiti su SPENS, Štrand i NIS, pa da krenemo od SPENS-a gde možete da kupujete, plivate, igrate tenis itd. ali najvažniji događaji su koncerti i utakmice. Other things in Novi Sad you should not miss are SPENS, Štrand and NIS, so let's start from SPENS where you can go shopping, swimming, play tennis etc. but the most important things are concerts and sport events.
Od SPENS-a koji se nalazi na Limanu 2 možete da prošetate do Limana 3 da vidite zgradu sedišta NIS-a From SPENS located at Liman 2 you can take a walk to Liman 3 to see NIS headquarters building
park i dva studentska doma u blizini i jednu mnogo važniju stvar, gradsku plažu Štrand ispod Mosta slobode. Nije mnogo bitno da li je leto ili zima, tamo možete dobro da se zabavite. the park and two student dorms nearby and one much more important thing, the city beach called Štrand under the Liberty bridge. It doesn't really matter if it is a summer or winter you can have a lot of fun there.
Još jedna stvar koju ne bi smeli da propustite je nacionalni park Fruška Gora. 16 veštačkih jezera i 16 manastira se nalaze tamo i ako mene pitate, Jazak, Novo Hopovo i Krušedol su pravi biseri ove planine. A možete i jednostavno da hodate kroz šume, slušate pesmu ptica, uživate u prirodi... One more thing you should not miss is the national park Fruška Gora. 16 artificial lakes and 16 monasteries are located there and if you ask me, Jazak, Novo Hopovo and Krušedol are the real pearls of this mountain. Or you can simply walk through the woods, listen the birds, enjoy the nature...
Hajde da kažemo još par stvari o ljudima iz Novog Sada. Da počnemo od loših stvari ali ove nisu specifične za Novi Sad, naćićete ih bilo gde u Srbiji. Srbi vole turiste, strance i sve vrste posetilaca i daće sve od sebe da vam pomognu ako vam treba pomoć ali ako treba da vam naplate nešto, vozači taksija su jako dobar primer, velika je šansa da će neko pokušati da zaradi dodatni novac tog dana. Čak i u muzeju na tvrđavi jednom sam video pre 3-4 godine da imaju posebne duple cene za turiste sa strane. To jednostavno nije u redu i verujem da su to promenili u međuvremenu.
A sad dobre stvari. Želim da spomenem na kraju jednog specijalnog stanovnika Novog Sada koji je rođen i odrastao tu, najveći pevač i tekstopisac u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, Đorđe Balašević.
Let's say more couple of things about people from Novi Sad. Let's start with bad things but these are not specific for Novi Sad, you will find them anywhere in Serbia. Serbs love tourists, foreigners and all kind of visitors and they will do their best to help you if you need help but if they need to charge you for something, taxi drivers are very good example, there is a big chance that someone will try to make some extra money that day. Even in the museum at the fortress once I saw 3-4 years ago that they have special doubled prices for tourists from abroad. That's just not right and I believe that they changed it in the meanwhile.
Now the good things. I want to mention for the end one special resident of Novi Sad who is born and grew up there, the greatest singer-songwriter in ex-Yugoslavia, Đorđe Balašević.
Pijani momci prolaze
Duž naše tihe ulice.
Oni u vojsku polaze,
Prate ih tužne curice,
Brinu ih slutnje sulude:
Da rata ne bude.

Ne mogu da me ne sete
Suze na vrhu nosića,
Devetsto-osamdesete,
Ulice Brane Ćosića
I voza crnog k'o da s njim
Zauvek odlazim.

Znaš šta?
Neka mora sve potope,
Nek' se glečeri rasture,
Večni snegovi otope,
Pa šta?
Neka kiše ne prestaju,
Neka gromovi polude,
Samo rata da ne bude.

Znaš šta?
Nek' se doba preokrenu,
Nek' se zvezde uznemire,
Nek' se planine pokrenu,
Pa šta?
Vetri nek pomahnitaju
Nek' se vulkani probude,
Samo rata da ne bude.
Drunken boys are passing
Through our silent streets,
They're going to the army
As girls greet them in sadness,
Worried by sorrowful thoughts.
Just let there be no war.

Tears are flowing on your little nose
and I can't help thinking
to nineteen eighty
in Branimir Ćosić street
and to the black train, too,
as if I went forever away with it.

You know what?
Let the seas sink down,
let the glaciers break asunder,
let eternal snows melt down
So what?
let the rain fall unstopped,
let there be lightning and thunders storms,
just let there be no war.

You know what?
Let time go backwards,
let stars go wild in the sky,
let mountains be displaced
So what?
let winds blow the world away,
let volcanoes awaken,
just let there be no war.
   
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